Silly Zilli - Signor Zilli (7.5/10)

Some time last year, our friend Andy, who works in marketing, told us about this great prize his company was offering - a meal cooked by Aldo Zilli! I think he was really upset when this apparent foodie said 'Who???'. Of course, since then Zilli has turned up everywhere - random TV ads, a cooking class that Gordon Ramsey went to in disguise and then as part of London Restaurant Week. He seems to be desperately trying to make himself into a famous TV chef, but I'm not sure it's working. Anyone read the 'Being Zilli' autobiography? The problem might be the silly Zilli name.

Anyway, having unfortunately procrastinated too long to make a booking at Nahm, we made a Friday night reservation at Signor Zilli's - apparently Zilli's flagship restaurant in Soho. After a couple of pre-drinks at the King of Diamonds, we headed over to Zilli's 'flagship restaurant'. Sounds grand, doesn't it? So, we were quite surprised to encounter this tiny room seating maybe 20 people. The maitre'd did made a big deal of asking us whether we wanted to sit there or additional section downstairs. We were happy with upstairs, but later when we saw downstairs, it wasn't really any bigger! Oh well, it's a small restaurant.

The London Restaurant Week menu was three courses for 25 pounds. I was immediately taken by two of my favourite restaurant dishes - chicken liver pate and duck confit. Both dishes I love, but wouldn't make at home. My decision was made. Kyle was distracted from the set menu by Tuscan sausages with beans and polenta on the a la carte menu, so decided to go that way, with Breasola with rocket and parmesan to start.


The Breasola was a pleasant enough starter, lifted by a splash of truffle oil and the excellent parmesan cheese. It was, however, no match for the outstanding chicken liver pate, wrapped in parma ham and served with a mango chutney. The pate was smooth and rich and the portion size was enormous, almost too much. An excellent starter and one point for me.


Unfortunately (for Kyle), I was also a clear winner in the mains. The duck confit with spring onion mash and plum sauce was one of the best duck confits I have ever had (and I've had my share). Crispy skin, meat you can cut with a spoon, not too fatty and with the tart plum sauce to cut through, this was a an outstanding example of one of my favourite foods. Kyle's Tuscan sausages had all the makings of a great dish, but was somehow just a little bland and disappointing.


We also ordered (eventually) some Zucchini fritti as a side. I was expecting something more shoestring fry-esque, so was quite surprised when these big chunky things arrived. That being said, it probably made it much less greasy, as the big chunks of zucchini was able to hold its flavour and texture better against the batter. It was actually a very good side dish.

All this was washed down with a bottle of South African Ormer Bay Merlot, a nice fruity and light red.

By now I was far too full to need dessert, but the problem with a set menu is that you've already paid for 3 courses, so you really may as well. I had the berry and custard tart, which was actually a reasonable size and quite light. It was nice enough - light pastry, tart berries - but nothing really special.

Overall, the food at Zilli's was a bit hit and miss and bizarrely, for an Italian restaurant, I realised afterwards that my dishes were very French. Hmmm. The service was frustrating in that it started really really well and then dropped off so significantly, we actually had to ask for dessert menus - normally you fight them off for dessert!

A lovely night out, but I'm not sure I would rush back (despite the excellent confit). And I have a little bit of a problem with that silly Zilli name.

Food: 8/10
Drinks: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Ambience: 7/10
Overall: 7.5/10

Signor Zilli
40 Dean Street
London W1D 4PR